Renante Parallon: ZAMBOANGUITA, NEGROS ORIENTAL, PHILIPPINES

it's more fun in Philippines
it's more fun in Negros Oriental
it's more fun in Zamboanguita

MUNICIPALITY OF ZAMBOANGUITA

The Legend of Zamboanguita

A town rooted in history and replete with natural resources, Zamboanguita derived its name from an incident involving a coguita (octopus). Long before the Spaniards set foot in Negros Island, fishermen from as far as Mindanao would visit the yet unnamed town and benefit from the bounty of its rich fishing grounds – from its small tugnos (juvenile gobies) to the large iho (shark) in Nearby Apo island.

One day, a group of Moro fishermen fishing in the area found a coguita caught in their fishing net, which they then separated from their fish catch as it had tentacles and had no gills. The leader of the Moro group then ordered one of his men to go to the beach, find a tree and “isab-ong ang coguita” (hang the octopus).” Since then, every time an octopus was caught, it was hung on that particular tree.

The local people eventually started calling the place “Sab-ongan ug coguita.” When the Spaniards descended on the town, they called the town “Zamboangaguita” and later on it was shortened to “Zamboanguita”

Geography

About 28 kilometres (17 mi) from Dumaguete City, Zamboanguita is at the southern tip of the province of Negros Oriental and across from the island province of Siquijor. To the west of Zamboanguita is the municipality of Siaton, and to the north/east is the municipality of Dauin.

Zamboanguita’s San Isidro Labrador Church

I have long been curious about Zamboanguita’s quaint old church of mamposteria (river stones), having seen it in some publications. And that curiousity was quenched a month ago when I visited the town. I haven’t yet found material that will indicate the construction period of the edifice but the town was established in 1866 and the church handled by the Recollect Augustinians who evangelized the entire Negros and Siquijor islands.

Zamboanguita Church’s simple facade

The facade of the church is simple yet imposing. An espadaña crowns the front and an occulus is found at the center. This used to be covered in paletada (stucco) but parts of it has since peeled or crumbled off exposing the river stones at the facade and sides of the nave.

Old images of the church lacks the brick covered parts, which might indicate that, together with the portico, a recent addition. Another new addition is the Pieta sculpture infront and the fence. In older images this is where the main entrance used to be.

There is not much left of the original interior except for the folksy rendition of the neoclassic altar, although I’m not even sure if this is still original or added later. The interior has mostly been painted, raised marble flooring at the presbytery as well as electric fan trees have been added.

MALATAPAY

Malatapay is best known by tourists for its huge and lively market, where every Wednesday morning villagers, fishers and Bukidnon tribespeople can be found loudly bartering their goods and feasting on lechón (spit-roasted whole pig).

Malatapay is also known for being the departure point for Apo Island, with boats leaving from the beach in front of the market. If you want to stay here to access Apo Island dive sites, Thalatta Resort in nearby Zamboanguita delivers fine food and excellent lodging in bungalows set around a lovely infinity pool with ocean views. The park-like grounds are a bit faux, but the French owner runs a tight ship, including a dive centre. Most clients are European, roughly half divers.